The small city of Mechelen is about halfway between Brussels and Antwerp and a relatively easy and quick train ride. Unlike Brussels, Mechelen (population 82,000 or so) actually seems to want you to visit. Signage is good and the city center is easy to reach on foot from either train station. It’s another one of those places with an attractive town square that turns you into a camera-happy tourist whether you’re normally into architecture or not.
If you’re here for beer, Mechelen’s home brewery is Het Anker. You’ll find a cafe in the city center, another on brewery grounds, a distillery, gift shop (of course), and even a brewery hotel. If you want an official tour of the brewery or the distillery, contact them in advance for a reservation. We didn’t bother, but still enjoyed an afternoon in this pleasant town drinking fresh Gouden Carolus beers. Mechelen is where I crossed one of the more adventurous foods off my Belgian to-do list, filet americain, seen here in the form of “toast kannibaal.” Sorry, vegetarians.
Both cafes were pleasant but I’ll give the edge to the one adjacent to the brewery despite the less convenient location. Visiting both allows you a head-clearing walk between beer sessions, which is almost always a good idea.
The bar at Het Anker’s brasserie, adjacent to the brewery. Photo by Rick.
Belgian beer fans from the US will recognize some of the beers on offer: Lucifer, Cuvee van de keizer blauw (and rood), Hopsinjoor. By going to the source, you’ll also find a few interesting things that rarely or never make it onto a trans-Atlantic boat, like the Gouden Carolus Classic (yum) and Ambrio. I had no idea Het Anker made a bock!
German beer adrift in the land of Belgians…plus a cute goat. Photo by Ann.
Fans of drinking local might kick things off with a Maneblusser, an easy drinking blonde with enough flavor to keep things interesting. It’s 6.2%, which starts to feel very low after a few days of Belgian classics. From the Het Anker website:
The inspiration for this brew originates in the night of January 27th in the year 1687. The moon projected its reddish glow on Saint Rumbold’s tower, which was wrapped in a dense fog. “Fire, fire, the tower is on fire!” shouts the dreary voice of a drunken man. The alarm was sounded and people were making haste to help extinguish the so-called fire. Before the tower was reached, the moon slowly moved through the fog. From that moment on, the Mechelenians are called the Maneblussers or “Moonextinguishers”.
There are a few other cafes in town where you can sample the local goods. We hit Afspraak on the way back to Antwerp. It’s very near one of the train stations in town and has food. If you enjoy Het Anker beers — and I’m not sure why you wouldn’t — I recommend Mechelen as a nice break from the hustle and bustle of Belgium’s bigger cities.
Small pours + decent prices = trying lots of beer!
Pilgrimage to Westmalle
If you don’t love Westmalle, what are you doing in Belgium? Right? So we had to take the bus out to the small town of Malle (two syllables) to pay our respects. It’s a reasonably short bus ride from central Antwerp and you can buy your 3 Euro ticket on the bus. Groups may or may not get a fare break depending on the driver’s disposition. The bus stops literally in front of the brewery and cafe, so this is a good excursion for that day when you’re tired of walking everywhere. Judging by the umpteen Westmalle-branded bike racks out front, this is also a popular cycling destination.
Visitors may walk around the brewery/abbey grounds, but the monks have better things to do than entertain you, so your drinking will be done across the street at the Cafe Trappisten.
They’re brewing back there…somewhere…
If you’re expecting old world charm, guess again. The place is shiny and modern, and at 40 I was the youngest person in the place. Odd. Don’t come for character, do come for Westmalle Dubbel (2.90-3.30 Euros, draft) and Tripel (3.60 Euros, 33 cl bottle). What else do you need in life? There’s also a half-and-half blend of the two (3.60 Euros), which I’m glad I tried but seemed like less than the sum of its parts. There are meals, snacks, and oh yes, piles of Trappist cheese.
As Anthony Bourdain would say, this does not suck
I’m 100% glad I went, and depending on your reverence for Westmalle beers you might want to go too, but it was also refreshing to get back to the more colorful and characterful bars of Antwerp afterwards.
Thanks Jen nice little summary, I stayed at and enjoyed the Anker brewery for both food and beer. Is the Stillen Genieter still open? It is/was a great place down by the river, with its quiet “Gentle Giant”(ish) owner plying his trade in his own particular way. More Antwerpen news?
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